Care and Feeding of the Soul

For me - at this time and place in my life, the last couple of weeks in Rossland have been magical and nourishing to my soul. I can't point to a single reason. It's the perfect fall weather, the crunch of dry leaves underfoot, the magnificent fall color which is now beginning to fade, the exquisite scenery, breathing mountain air, seeing an amazing sunrise. It's being out in nature for hours each day hiking the trails and exploring the area, where it sometimes feels like I'm entering sacred space and where, for some inexplicable reason, it sometimes feels like I've come home. It's the thrill of feeling stronger and more fit than I've been in a long time.  It's meeting new people and knowing I have choices in this "after life" beyond those previously considered. It's knowing there is much to explore without ever leaving this country.  It's fun. It's easy going. It's exactly what I need. 

But there is another side. Of course there is. There is always another side, and for me, it's the triggers.  There have been many, sometimes occurring almost one on top of the other.  Like seeing bikers taking their last, precious rides of the season, riding in a truck the same make, model and color as Brian's, doing everyday errands like picking up mulch or truck parts, smelling the familiar smells of solvents, oil and other chemicals in a shop, hearing a Fleetwood Mac song (Brian would have only cared about Stevie Nicks, of course and would have completely disregarded the rest of the band), driving secondary highways to visit a hydro dam and generating station, getting advice about downshifting on mountain roads.  What's interesting is that the triggers are oddly comforting. Instead of the searing pain I've experienced before, when they occur, I feel like he's nearby.  

It's such a blending of past and present with the recognition that the future has potential to be great - looking forward while remaining connected to the past.  It's ironic, but it is because of Brian's death that I'm so able to appreciate every moment life has to offer. There are are no guarantees about tomorrow. Live today in color.  

A few closing thoughts about Camp Widow Toronto 2015

I have to wonder what other people (like those at the hotel for weddings, engagement parties, corporate events) think when they see this and hear the laughter. 

Or when they see a group of people with their huge Camp Widow name tags having a great time.  I hope they see the same thing our young DJ did. 

We found out this morning the father of our DJ died 4 months ago and that he was so pleased to have had the opportunity to DJ for our group. Seeing the good time we were having gave him hope that his mom can be okay and at some point enjoy life again. We never know when or how we carry a message. 

I can't quite believe I was up early enough to do the Labyrinth Walk at 7 am with a few other hardy souls as the rain drizzled down. It's the first time I've walked a labyrinth and I now think it could be a useful tool on this journey of discovery. What made this one particularly interesting is the folded chairs that were lying on the ground in preparation for an event later today. It was decided we would leave the chairs where they were rather than move them and try to put them back after we were done, and that the chairs would represent the obstacles we face in life. It was interesting to see ourselves step over and walk around the chairs and at times squeeze past each other to keep moving forward.  Just like life. 

 

The labyrinth this afternoon with the chairs set up. 

Some of the homework to begin developing the plot line, doing the character development for the next volume ...

Next stop - Pearson International. 

Already looking forward to Camp Widow Tampa 2016. And sleep - also looking forward to sleep. 

I'm A Widow - What's Your Superpower?

I don't remember where I heard this this weekend - probably from a young widow with young kids, a job, a house, yard, car to maintain, finances to manage and more .... but I immediately thought "yes!"  We are superheroes. We've all been drop kicked, we've survived and, for the most part we're thriving. How is this possible?  There are lots of reasons, but a big one is community!  Camp Widow is community on steroids!

Today was all about thriving!! Some highlights:

Breakfast - I haven't laughed so hard talking about things I can't imagine talking about with anyone - and with people I'd never met before this weekend - and early in the morning - but we did have coffee. 

Keynote - You're now writing a new volume of your life story. What do you want in it? Develop your character!

If we guard our hearts too closely, the gates will keep out the people who can sustain us. 

Grief is in the background of every single day. Some days it's loud, some days quieter, but it's always there. No wonder some days we're tired. 

On relationships - you can't bring someone into something you know nothing about. We need to discover who we are after loss. 

Live the List!

And after all of that emotional stuff and the damp tissues stuffed in my purse - we were entertained by Kelley Lynn - a wonderful comic from NYC who is part of this community. Nothing was sacred - panic attacks, dumb things people say to a griever, changing the account holder on a cell phone account ("but I need to talk to the account holder". "I'd like to talk to him too, but he's DEAD!"), widow brain, the "fuck it" meditation..... I laughed till my sides hurt - I wonder if that counts as a workout?

Between the laughter and the tears, it was a very bad mascara day. Perhaps next time, there could be waterproof mascara in the swag bags?

And then there was the evening. We clean up real good!! A great banquet, more moving moments (I got a red, heart shaped rock and hugs to commemorate Brian's Sept birthday and mine) followed by a freaking dance!! I haven't danced in years, and I'm not sure I've ever danced like THAT!! Inhibitions be damned!

Michelle and the balloons that contain our intentions. 

I'm going to the next Camp Widow in March in Tampa to have this rockin' good time all over again. Why not? It will be winter in Sask. 

New friends 

Life is good - and painful - and an adventure - and confusing - and bizarre. And did I mention, good?  Maybe even great. 

I know we would all trade this weekend in a heartbeat to have our love back, but since that isn't going to happen, I'm going to figure out the plot line for the next volume, develop my character and start writing. 

Camp Widow is about Life!

Michelle Neff-Hernandez, the founder of Soaring Spirits said today, "Camp Widow is not about death. Camp is about life!" That's how it feels!

Today has been full of amazing moments, although I haven't been outside all day, the tv in my room has yet to be switched on and my only exercise has been taking the stairs rather than the escalator. I think it may have rained today??

I have met people from all over Canada and the U.S. whose spouses died anywhere from 3 months to 12 years ago. The number of young women here is startling - including one from White City and another from Regina!  As they grieve, they also raise young children, go to work, start new relationships. I've met people who have become authors, counsellors and bloggers since their person died. Moving forward. 

There is love and acceptance here like I've never experienced before. I can sit at any table of people, join any conversation and within seconds feel like I'm with friends. "How far out are you?" is the most common question asked. 

In the roundtable on "Death by serious illness" I cried and then I laughed till I cried. Sounds crazy, but the facilitator was so damn funny.  How is it possible that we laughed so much while talking about awful experiences with our loved one becoming ill, caring for them, less than stellar experiences with medical systems and their ultimate death? How? But we did. 

We talked about resilience and how the death of our spouse isn't the only awful thing we'll have to face in our lifetime (I know that, but haven't wanted to think about it much).  We talked about how gratitude leads to perspective and how talking about gratitude sometimes pisses us off because we sure as hell don't always feel grateful, and some days the best we can do is be grateful things aren't worse - because they could always be worse. But an applied practise of gratitude increases resilience - so get on it, Sharon!

Periodically I've been pissed off at Brian because I don't feel his presence. I heard a lot today about the signs others experience of their loved one's continued presence in their lives. Maybe it will come for me, maybe not, maybe not quite yet. 

It has been a wonderfully inspirational day. I wish every widowed person could attend an event like this, because there is hope and healing here. 

Camp Widow Toronto 2015

For weeks ( months, really) I've been looking forward to attending Camp Widow in Toronto. After all, what could be more fun than going to a conference with several hundred women and men whose spouses have died - some recently, some not so recently. You're skeptical?  Think about it for a minute ..... if you'd been through your most horrific life experience to date, if you often felt isolated because, despite the wonderful, loving, supportive family members and friends around you that you love and appreciate more than you can say, it's impossible to truly, deeply "get" what its like to have the love of your life die unless you're living it - at least that's my belief. 

Reading bereavement and personal growth books helps, exercise helps, journaling helps, a support group, meditation, yoga, talking to people, email and texting helps. Listening to music helps (at least after the first few months when I was able to listen to music again). Many things, while fun, also distract - TV, wine, movies, trip planning, a hectic social schedule. 

But at Camp Widow everyone will "get it." They will get the disbelief, the depth of the blackness and despair, the inability to get out of bed, especially in the early days. They'll get the desire to die - they'll have known it. 

Depending on where they are in their journey, they'll also get the flickers of joy that start to come by surprise, that start to happen with greater frequency and last longer until most of the time you want to grab life and run with it even though you don't know what that means or even who you are now in this new life. And, how a minute after feeling that joy, excitement and sense of adventure, tears can return - but with less pain and almost a comfortable familiarity.  They will get how you can feel sadness and joy in the same moment and miss your love deeply while accepting reality and continuing to move forward embracing life and whatever the future holds. They will get all of those things and more. 

I can't begin to imagine how powerful that will be. I'm expecting a lot of tears, as many or likely more laughs, some new friendships and a kick ass fitness plan from Michelle S aka One Fit Widow.

Yesterday everyone attending received a welcome email that included information about handling fear and anxiety at the conference. Not me - no fear, no anxiety here. Bring it on!  Bring it all on!

I'll let you know how reality meets my vision as the weekend unfolds. 

I've been home for just over a month

I know I left the blog kind of unfinished - I mean, who knows for sure if I even got home?? :)

The only travel event that followed the last post was a LONG travel day with an extremely confusing and unnecessarily frustrating check in at the Rome airport.  My recommendation for anyone going to Italy.  Fly into Rome - no problem there, but I highly recommend flying out of another airport - perhaps Florence or Naples.  Web check in sent me and many others to the wrong terminal, which is apparently routine, LONG and SLOW check in line, had to go through security twice and take numerous shuttle busses to end up (I think) at the same terminal where the web check in told us to go in the first place.   Three hours in line ups.  If you don't believe this, as I didn't while I was living it, check Trip Advisor.

• Napping on an airport floor sucks
• Seven hour layovers suck
• Jet lag sucks

But it was all worth it for the wonderful experiences I had in Italy.

Trip highlights:

• Travelling with Michelle, Sarah and Kelly.  So much fun despite one or two tense moments.
• Dinner on the rooftop of our guesthouse in Rome.
• Hanging out in Cortona and Orvieto - I relearned that, while the history contained in the cities is important, it's not where I have my most memorable and enjoyable times.
• Wine tasting tour with Kelly outside Florence.
• The concert I happened across in Orvieto.  I still can't believe I went to a concert of that calibre in such a small and historic venue for only 10 Euro.
• Wine tasting and the cooking class at Decguano die Barbi outside of Orvieto.
• Walking the Amalfi Coast.  It was hard at times, but I feel like I saw and somewhat understand that part of the country much more because of the mode of travel and the knowledge the tour guide shared with us about the country and the culture.  
• This isn't a typical highlight, but something memorable is certainly leaving some of Brian's ashes under the rose bush in Cortona, on the city wall in Orvieto and at the top of Tre Calli overlooking Positano.

What did I learn?

• Small group tours are worth checking out, especially when I don't know the language, and (although I haven't tested this yet), I expect more physically active tours are preferable to coach tours.  
• I'm not yet very brave when it comes to using public transit.  
• I overthink (sound familiar, Michelle?)
• I need to do much less shopping (do you see shopping on the highlight list?).  Some of the stuff it seemed so important to buy when I was over there seems so unimportant now. 
• Travelling alone doesn't suck - and it would be much better if I knew the language.  This trip worked well - a couple of weeks with the kids, a week on my own and a week with a small group walking tour.

Now the challenge is - where to next?  So many options.....

Bomerano to Rome via Herculaneum and Naples airport

Every day seems to get just a bit hotter, so it must be time to come home. This morning was all about packing, wandering around the town one last time, having a Nutella gelato and having a nap on a lounge chair beside the pool. 

Foxglove growing wild

Vineyards

The Tre Calli will always be a special place to me. Maybe I'll hike it again one day. 

This afternoon a bus took us to Herculanum for a couple of hours on the way to the airport, and I enjoyed it much more than Pompeii, because it's better preserved, small and not crowded. It certainly isn't better preserved because the Italians have been looking after it, at least not until the last 15 years or so. It's because it is farther from Vesuvius so it was covered by mud rather than ash and lava, so not as much was destroyed.  In some places 3 stories of a building are standing and there are some beautiful mosaic floors (I can't believe we could walk on them), and some stunning mosaics on the walls. The only thing it's missing is the grandeur of Pompeii - like the forum and the amphitheater. 

Vesuvius as seen from Herculanum 

I noticed even more today how Vesuvius looms above Naples ( the photo doesn't do that justice). We were lucky to have been able to see it so well several times this week since it's often covered by cloud. 

The flight to Rome was brief and uneventful. I was a bit anxious about two people sitting near me who seemed to be very nervous flyers, but they got through it. The sunset, as seen from the shuttle bus between the plane and the terminal, was lovely.

Culture shock. I'm now in a shiny airport hotel feeling very grimy after being in the sun much of the day. Oh well, they'll have live with it. My Visa works as well as the next person's. And I get CNN and BBC - already I know that Barcelona won the match againstJuventus today.  Did I mentioned that Big Bang Theory just isn't the same in Italian??

I'm going to miss Italy. I'm going to miss the type of walking I've been doing.  I'm going to miss some of the people I met. It's been quite a magical vacation. It's been suggested I now plan a trip to England - and that March might be a good time to go. 

Last day

Yesterday was pretty wonderful - we walked from Amalfi up to Ravello through lemon groves, old paper making mills (a thriving industry back in the day) and dense forest that reminded me of the west coast of BC and parts of Vancouver Island. It was gorgeous. But it was HOT and humid, so whenever we got any hint of a breeze, it was appreciated by everyone. 

Lemon groves

When we arrived in Ravello, we had a few hours before the bus was to pick us up for the return trip to Bomerano. Suzy took some of us to a 5 star hotel for a drink on their enormous patio overlooking the sea. I could get into that lifestyle - waiters in white dinner jackets serving fancy drinks. And, although we weren't exactly dressed for a 5 star, they treated us like we were. It was also a great spot to wait out a thunderstorm. 

I'm finding that, although I like getting to our destination each day (partly because it means the end of long, long expanses of steps), I didn't have much interest in being in the tourist towns of Amalfi, Positano and Ravello, although Ravello was particularly charming. I must find out more about the Bloomsberry group who spent much time in Ravello. I quite like that we stayed in a place that isn't in the guidebooks. 

Today we leave this magical place and I will have to get on with planning my next adventure. We're making a stop at Herculanum this afternoon, on our way to the airport - a fishing village that was buried in mud by Vesuvius the same time as Pompeii - and it's supposed to have been better preserved - and it's 4.5 hectares rather than 60 - and not that many people go there - all bonuses. 

One more sleep and I'll be on my way home. 

Chilling Out

So, I thought - it's a free day. I won't do much. I'll have nothing to share, but I must tell you about Crazy Burger, the place we went to for lunch, however it's apparently not the place to order a burger. Antonio has many, many pots of vegetables and herbs all around his large patio and more garden in the back. I ordered caprese and he picked organic tomatoes and basil on the spot, and uses local, traditionally made cheese. One of us ordered fish. We saw Antonio walk to the fresh fish market immediately next door and come back with a fish in a bag which he then cooked for Kevin (it came with a face). Everything tasted exquisite!!  What an amazing place. 

This area of Italy is so fertile that a front yard can grow more vegetables than you can imagine- and that's exactly what everyone does. There are no lawns and not that many planted flowers. 

Other than that, I walked around town a bit, swam and read by the pool and hung out with the others who didn't go to Capri - but the Capri folk are back now. Must go and see how it was 

Walk of The Gods

There is no way to adequately describe yesterday. We walked the 12 km Walk of the Gods from our hotel in Bomerano to Positano - and not the tourist Walk of the Gods, but the authentic Walk of the Gods, a much higher path with (you guessed it) many, many, many steps, much sun and a lot of sweating. The views are spectacular and the terrain varies from lots of rock, full on sunshine to shady areas deep in the trees. Suzy had us stopping often to soak in the views and the day. 

We had magical mist early in the day

As always, she pointed out places we'd been that we could see from the trail. Wow! I did that?? I think those photos are on my camera, so they aren't posted here - yet. 

The path got busier as we got nearer to Positano - kind of reminded me of the morning we hiked to the Sun Gate at Machu Picchu - way too much testosterone and need for speed as we met up with people coming up from Positano to grab a few views and rush back down. 

Positano

Positano is its own world for sure. It's the place to see and be seen. Wonderful people watching to be done, lots of machismo, lots of "princesses". I had the best Mojito ever at a beach bar and a little swim in the sea. 

No explanation required 

On the ferry from Positano to Amalfi, Suzy pointed out even more places we'd walked. Wow again!!

Looking forward to our day off today and hanging around the village and the hotel. My feet feel in need of a break. 

How many hairpin turns can fit into one day?

Tomorrow morning my blister meets moleskin before doing The walk of the Gods into Positano. Just over 12 kms but less up and down than previous days. 

Kevin making friends with the resident dog

Today was Pompeii and Vesuvius. Pompeii is huge!! Like, big enough that some of our group members got kinda lost (not me) after our guide left us to our own devices. I can't fathom the amount of time and money and work it has taken and is still taking to excavate the site! The downside is the crowds and the heat. It's insane and both get worse in summer. 

From there we headed to Vesuvius. After a long drive up more roads full of switchbacks in a bus that honks at every blind corner, we got to the spot where cars were parking where they shouldn't so the bus couldn't get thru - especially sine there were other busses trying to make their way down. I guess it's the Italian way. We got out and walked and the bus driver sorted it out. 

Oh yeah - and about 2 weeks ago the porta potties were removed from the site by the Mafia. The people who owned the site hadn't paid their "rent". Yep - Mafia alive and well in southern Italy. 

Vesuvius is pretty amazing. When it blew in 79AD the lava and ash shot 13 kms in the air. It's the most closely monitored volcano in the world and it is thought the volcano specialists will know 2 weeks in advance if it is going to blow again. And Stefano is the most alpha male guide ever!

This is a cool way to travel. It removes the stress. I'm getting to places I would never otherwise go, meeting mostly wonderful people and it's easy to do this on my own. 

One year ago

It's been on my mind almost all the time for the last week. Today it was exactly one year ago that Brian died. This morning I wanted to pull the covers over my head and stay in bed, but I knew that doing today's hike was a better option. And it was such a good option. To begin with, I had to watch my feet and focus on where they were every second - as I do everywhere. Along the way I had a chat with one of the men about cycling. He's probably in his 70's, smokes a pipe and wears clothes that Brian would wear (like all of the men on this tour - Brian wouldn't look geeky at all). Kevin cycles and he cycles in the same clothes he walks in. Reminded me of when we cycled from Humboldt to Duck Mountain. No tight bicycle shorts for him. Nope!! 

At lunchtime we reached the top of Tre Calle - well, 5-10 minutes from the top - with a marvellous, cloudless view of Positano. Suzy gave us the option of staying there with the view or doing the last 10 minutes to the top. I stayed along with two others. I found a quiet spot, put some of Brian's ashes there, and had my lunch. It was a very special moment. 

According to the trip notes we were to have done this hike yesterday and yesterday's hike today where it wouldn't have been possible to carve out that piece of time. It couldn't have worked out better!! Thank you to the universe - again!

The day started with going to a family operated cheese making business to see them make mozzarella in the traditional way - and we got to take some of the fresh mozzarella and some ricotta with us to have with lunch. An intriguing process and a fabulous product. Perfecto!  

The hike was challenging - lots of up - obviously, and then a traverse across the saddleback and down. Lots of stone steps and loose shale, but worth it! And this may be TMI for some of you, but for those I've travelled with, you know I have to make regular pit stops. Not today. Not once, even after drinking a couple of litres of water. Between the hiking and the heat....

Everyone in town loves our tour guide. She gets greeted and kissed as we walk down the street. After the hike - gelato and then to Crazy Burger for Proseco and appies - Antonio grows the vegetables he uses in the restaurant. I'm staying in Bomerano on our free day - and I've told Antonio I'm coming there for lunch. Tonight we get to go to the kitchen to watch out dinner being prepared from scratch. I'm expecting the smell to whet my appetite. 

It seems most of my photos are on my camera rather than my phone. 

Tomorrow- Pompeii and Vesuvius. 

Thanks to all of you for your love and support, especially over the last week or so. 

Amalfi

Our tour guide reminds me of Claire Martin who used to be with CBC. Same accent, same personality, similar looks.

We did an absolutely stunning walk down 700m to Amalfi yesterday! Even though the net drop was 700m ("the day has a downhill bias"). we did lots of up, so the total elevation change my body is be feeling is fairly dramatic. In several spots we could see to where headed. In others we could look back and see where we'd been.  Call me impressed!!

The uneven stone steps and some of the "goat paths" close to the edge of big drops strongly reminded me of Machu Picchu, but with adequate oxygen.   

I think when the brochure says we walk 2700 steps down to Amalfi, it means those steps start only after 3 hours of hiking.  Yay for hiking poles!!  

Today we walk up and across this saddleback. Today it is also one year since Brian died. He'd love this hike and will be with me in spirit. Thanks to all of you for your support on this journey. 

Always, always travel with extra ziploc bags

So much space can be saved my smushing things into them - and I did. 

Yesterday was a day of navigating train stations, so I have nothing fun or particularly interesting to say about that. The system is efficient, but like small towns, I prefer small train stations. No such luck today. 

On the train to Naples I was sitting across from man with a striking resemblance to Tony Soprano - seems a bit cliche, but true story. Cliches become cliches for a reason. 

Naples is loud, dirty, chaotic, sleazy and men look at women in ways I've never experienced before. I felt like I needed a shower the whole time I was wandering around the streets. It's also much more multicultural than any other place I've seen in Italy, which I hadn't thought about before. Everything I saw of Naples while walking or riding buses looked like a slum.  Pedestrians seem to cross the street wherever - they wait about 10 seconds which must seem like it's been long enough and then cross - despite the traffic. Drivers seem to work with this cuz it's also how people drive - and traffic signals appear to be only suggestions. A return visit is not on my bucket list! 

Naples streetscape 

 

It looks like the tour will be great. The majority of the group is from England, with three Canadians, one American, a couple of New Zealanders and two I don't know about yet. 

The drive around the Bay of Naples at sunset and then way up the mountain to our hotel was spectacular! Kelly, you thought we saw good driving by Italians in Tuscany - you should have seen the bus driver navigate the array of hairpin turns on the mountainside!!

Dinner at the hotel was wonderful! The accommodations are lovely - there is a new pool that I'm sure will feel so good after a day of hiking. Looking forward to the week.  

Not bad, eh? The place seems to get many hikers - spotted another group just now. 

This trip would be even better if I spoke some Italian!

I walked the rest of the path around the city this morning - such a breathtaking walk. Along the way, I put some of Brian's ashes on the stone fence in a place with a stunning view. He'd love it here!  

I was feeling kinda sad, and then I got to the place where the path ended at a stone building with a long stone staircase, but no signage. Wasn't sure where to go, but an elderly gentleman told me to go up the stairs - as was he - he'd been picking cranberries. He knew a tiny bit of English, and I learned that he's 86, a retired swimming and diving instructor, has 3 children - his daughter is a teacher near Milan, one of his 2 sons lives in Australia and he lives in an apartment near the stairs we walked up. Actually, he kind of bounded up the steps. Pretty spry for 86. He's from Napoli, so was pleased I'm headed that way tomorrow. Such encounters are so unexpected and make my day and make me think there are powers at work that I don't understand. By the time I shook his hand and said good-bye to him I couldn't stop smiling. 

I went back to yesterday's trattoria at lunchtime for more of that delicious caprese salad, but there was no Napoli Bufala Mozzarella left - I got very lucky yesterday!  (Maybe I can find some during the few hours I have in Naples tomorrow? Oh, right - I was planning to find pizza). 

If you go to Orvieto - and you should - eat here for sure!!

No matter - the food was still spectacular. Again, it was like a social club with completely different people - Americans and New Zealanders - all of them seem to own houses around the area, some conduct business from here and divide their time between Italy and their other home.  This appears to be the clientele of this trattoria - in fact one of the times the cook popped out of the kitchen (there were many), he said he doesn't really like Italians. Someone said, what about ... - "he's Venetian, he's not Italian".  What about ..,,? "He's International. If I don't like someone out here I just stay in the kitchen."  He obviously liked today's crowd. And it felt good to hear and speak English! 

Another thing about solo travel here - most of the time there is no one to talk to in my own language. That's likely one of the reasons I'm enjoying blogging and email as much as I am - and tuning into the previous night's program of The National each morning. 

Google seems to have decided I've been in Italy long enough to start getting search results in Italian. Scary when Google starts making decisions on our behalf. 

Laundry is done again and I've been packing. I hope I don't have to resort to wearing hiking boots tomorrow to create a bit of space, but it may come to that. 

Tomorrow is a long travel day...

I'm not getting lost anymore, but I don't always know where I am

I often find myself on a street I don't recognize, but as long as I walk up rather than down, I get to a familiar spot. That was meant to be a factual statement, but now that I re-read it, it sounds kinda deep. 

I love my little cafe in the mornings. The same old guys are in their spots. I can tell when the trains come and go. When one has arrived, confused looking people with maps in hand walk up the hill with their bags clacking behind them. When people are leaving, they confidently stride down the hill, bags in tow. I've decided lots of school groups come to Orvieto for their year end trips. Makes sense - there is lots to see, lots of history and it's close to Rome and Florence. Monday seemed like an American tour group day. Yesterday was more of an Asian tour group day. Today was pretty mixed, but it was market day which was likely a draw for day trippers. You can buy everything at the market - Kelly - even a bathing suit. Fruit, vegetables, meats, cheese, dried fruits, nuts, sunglasses, fabric, clothes, flowers .... I got some great dried sweet tomatoes!! Who knew?

The Mancelli Teatro is fabulous! It's a "new" building from the 1800s with frescoes, a curtain that is really a painting and this amazing foyer/small concert space a couple of floors up. Much of the Winter Jazz Festival happens here. 

(Seats are covered so it looks a bit odd and the curtain was part way up - there was work being done on sets)

The "foyer" upstairs. 

I went to a bank today cuz I needed to break €100. It was much like going into a jail - press button, one door opens and you're in this teeny (really freaking teeny) area with the door closing behind you. Gulp!! Then the next door opens to let you in (Sigh of relief). I'll bet claustrophobic people do all their banking on line. 

Lunch was great again - another Lonely Planet recommendation. There was no menu - he just told people what he had today. I could hear him cutting the bread as people arrived - 5 tables. Best caprese salad ever!! Apparently that's because the Buffalo Mozzarella came from Naples - the owner was there last weekend. Apparently The Italian Star gets theirs from Toronto. Damn!

I heard some interesting stories from the next tables too and we all had some giggles - barge cruising, falling into the water ... like that. No one knew each other before lunch but do now. The cook came out and visited. When he found out where I was going next he immediately looked at my feet and told me emphatically several times that I can't wear the shoes I was wearing today. No kidding - I was wearing flip flops. I assured him I have the right footwear. 

Went to the Duomo one more time. The tour groups must have been gone cuz hardly anyone was there. Here is one photo of the frescoes I was talking about the other day. 

I believe this is hell

I walked a lot more of the path that rings the town, but I lost it again (like yesterday) at a vehicle entrance. Will finish it up tomorrow. 

There are bugs here - mosquitoes and no-see-ems. Had to break out the bug spray. 

This was a long post, but I seem to have packed a lot into what seemed like a laid back day. Oh yeah, also chatted via FaceTime with Charlotte (happy 8th bday) and the rest of the family. What a bonus!