Bomerano to Rome via Herculaneum and Naples airport

Every day seems to get just a bit hotter, so it must be time to come home. This morning was all about packing, wandering around the town one last time, having a Nutella gelato and having a nap on a lounge chair beside the pool. 

Foxglove growing wild

Vineyards

The Tre Calli will always be a special place to me. Maybe I'll hike it again one day. 

This afternoon a bus took us to Herculanum for a couple of hours on the way to the airport, and I enjoyed it much more than Pompeii, because it's better preserved, small and not crowded. It certainly isn't better preserved because the Italians have been looking after it, at least not until the last 15 years or so. It's because it is farther from Vesuvius so it was covered by mud rather than ash and lava, so not as much was destroyed.  In some places 3 stories of a building are standing and there are some beautiful mosaic floors (I can't believe we could walk on them), and some stunning mosaics on the walls. The only thing it's missing is the grandeur of Pompeii - like the forum and the amphitheater. 

Vesuvius as seen from Herculanum 

I noticed even more today how Vesuvius looms above Naples ( the photo doesn't do that justice). We were lucky to have been able to see it so well several times this week since it's often covered by cloud. 

The flight to Rome was brief and uneventful. I was a bit anxious about two people sitting near me who seemed to be very nervous flyers, but they got through it. The sunset, as seen from the shuttle bus between the plane and the terminal, was lovely.

Culture shock. I'm now in a shiny airport hotel feeling very grimy after being in the sun much of the day. Oh well, they'll have live with it. My Visa works as well as the next person's. And I get CNN and BBC - already I know that Barcelona won the match againstJuventus today.  Did I mentioned that Big Bang Theory just isn't the same in Italian??

I'm going to miss Italy. I'm going to miss the type of walking I've been doing.  I'm going to miss some of the people I met. It's been quite a magical vacation. It's been suggested I now plan a trip to England - and that March might be a good time to go. 

Last day

Yesterday was pretty wonderful - we walked from Amalfi up to Ravello through lemon groves, old paper making mills (a thriving industry back in the day) and dense forest that reminded me of the west coast of BC and parts of Vancouver Island. It was gorgeous. But it was HOT and humid, so whenever we got any hint of a breeze, it was appreciated by everyone. 

Lemon groves

When we arrived in Ravello, we had a few hours before the bus was to pick us up for the return trip to Bomerano. Suzy took some of us to a 5 star hotel for a drink on their enormous patio overlooking the sea. I could get into that lifestyle - waiters in white dinner jackets serving fancy drinks. And, although we weren't exactly dressed for a 5 star, they treated us like we were. It was also a great spot to wait out a thunderstorm. 

I'm finding that, although I like getting to our destination each day (partly because it means the end of long, long expanses of steps), I didn't have much interest in being in the tourist towns of Amalfi, Positano and Ravello, although Ravello was particularly charming. I must find out more about the Bloomsberry group who spent much time in Ravello. I quite like that we stayed in a place that isn't in the guidebooks. 

Today we leave this magical place and I will have to get on with planning my next adventure. We're making a stop at Herculanum this afternoon, on our way to the airport - a fishing village that was buried in mud by Vesuvius the same time as Pompeii - and it's supposed to have been better preserved - and it's 4.5 hectares rather than 60 - and not that many people go there - all bonuses. 

One more sleep and I'll be on my way home. 

Chilling Out

So, I thought - it's a free day. I won't do much. I'll have nothing to share, but I must tell you about Crazy Burger, the place we went to for lunch, however it's apparently not the place to order a burger. Antonio has many, many pots of vegetables and herbs all around his large patio and more garden in the back. I ordered caprese and he picked organic tomatoes and basil on the spot, and uses local, traditionally made cheese. One of us ordered fish. We saw Antonio walk to the fresh fish market immediately next door and come back with a fish in a bag which he then cooked for Kevin (it came with a face). Everything tasted exquisite!!  What an amazing place. 

This area of Italy is so fertile that a front yard can grow more vegetables than you can imagine- and that's exactly what everyone does. There are no lawns and not that many planted flowers. 

Other than that, I walked around town a bit, swam and read by the pool and hung out with the others who didn't go to Capri - but the Capri folk are back now. Must go and see how it was 

Walk of The Gods

There is no way to adequately describe yesterday. We walked the 12 km Walk of the Gods from our hotel in Bomerano to Positano - and not the tourist Walk of the Gods, but the authentic Walk of the Gods, a much higher path with (you guessed it) many, many, many steps, much sun and a lot of sweating. The views are spectacular and the terrain varies from lots of rock, full on sunshine to shady areas deep in the trees. Suzy had us stopping often to soak in the views and the day. 

We had magical mist early in the day

As always, she pointed out places we'd been that we could see from the trail. Wow! I did that?? I think those photos are on my camera, so they aren't posted here - yet. 

The path got busier as we got nearer to Positano - kind of reminded me of the morning we hiked to the Sun Gate at Machu Picchu - way too much testosterone and need for speed as we met up with people coming up from Positano to grab a few views and rush back down. 

Positano

Positano is its own world for sure. It's the place to see and be seen. Wonderful people watching to be done, lots of machismo, lots of "princesses". I had the best Mojito ever at a beach bar and a little swim in the sea. 

No explanation required 

On the ferry from Positano to Amalfi, Suzy pointed out even more places we'd walked. Wow again!!

Looking forward to our day off today and hanging around the village and the hotel. My feet feel in need of a break. 

How many hairpin turns can fit into one day?

Tomorrow morning my blister meets moleskin before doing The walk of the Gods into Positano. Just over 12 kms but less up and down than previous days. 

Kevin making friends with the resident dog

Today was Pompeii and Vesuvius. Pompeii is huge!! Like, big enough that some of our group members got kinda lost (not me) after our guide left us to our own devices. I can't fathom the amount of time and money and work it has taken and is still taking to excavate the site! The downside is the crowds and the heat. It's insane and both get worse in summer. 

From there we headed to Vesuvius. After a long drive up more roads full of switchbacks in a bus that honks at every blind corner, we got to the spot where cars were parking where they shouldn't so the bus couldn't get thru - especially sine there were other busses trying to make their way down. I guess it's the Italian way. We got out and walked and the bus driver sorted it out. 

Oh yeah - and about 2 weeks ago the porta potties were removed from the site by the Mafia. The people who owned the site hadn't paid their "rent". Yep - Mafia alive and well in southern Italy. 

Vesuvius is pretty amazing. When it blew in 79AD the lava and ash shot 13 kms in the air. It's the most closely monitored volcano in the world and it is thought the volcano specialists will know 2 weeks in advance if it is going to blow again. And Stefano is the most alpha male guide ever!

This is a cool way to travel. It removes the stress. I'm getting to places I would never otherwise go, meeting mostly wonderful people and it's easy to do this on my own. 

One year ago

It's been on my mind almost all the time for the last week. Today it was exactly one year ago that Brian died. This morning I wanted to pull the covers over my head and stay in bed, but I knew that doing today's hike was a better option. And it was such a good option. To begin with, I had to watch my feet and focus on where they were every second - as I do everywhere. Along the way I had a chat with one of the men about cycling. He's probably in his 70's, smokes a pipe and wears clothes that Brian would wear (like all of the men on this tour - Brian wouldn't look geeky at all). Kevin cycles and he cycles in the same clothes he walks in. Reminded me of when we cycled from Humboldt to Duck Mountain. No tight bicycle shorts for him. Nope!! 

At lunchtime we reached the top of Tre Calle - well, 5-10 minutes from the top - with a marvellous, cloudless view of Positano. Suzy gave us the option of staying there with the view or doing the last 10 minutes to the top. I stayed along with two others. I found a quiet spot, put some of Brian's ashes there, and had my lunch. It was a very special moment. 

According to the trip notes we were to have done this hike yesterday and yesterday's hike today where it wouldn't have been possible to carve out that piece of time. It couldn't have worked out better!! Thank you to the universe - again!

The day started with going to a family operated cheese making business to see them make mozzarella in the traditional way - and we got to take some of the fresh mozzarella and some ricotta with us to have with lunch. An intriguing process and a fabulous product. Perfecto!  

The hike was challenging - lots of up - obviously, and then a traverse across the saddleback and down. Lots of stone steps and loose shale, but worth it! And this may be TMI for some of you, but for those I've travelled with, you know I have to make regular pit stops. Not today. Not once, even after drinking a couple of litres of water. Between the hiking and the heat....

Everyone in town loves our tour guide. She gets greeted and kissed as we walk down the street. After the hike - gelato and then to Crazy Burger for Proseco and appies - Antonio grows the vegetables he uses in the restaurant. I'm staying in Bomerano on our free day - and I've told Antonio I'm coming there for lunch. Tonight we get to go to the kitchen to watch out dinner being prepared from scratch. I'm expecting the smell to whet my appetite. 

It seems most of my photos are on my camera rather than my phone. 

Tomorrow- Pompeii and Vesuvius. 

Thanks to all of you for your love and support, especially over the last week or so.